Today I took P out for a nice walk (though it was cold). Came home, hot bath, then did some yoga. I noticed I was really stiff and not doing well on the more dynamic stuff though balances were ok; then did a bit of weights. Felt increasingly rough; an hour or so later clearly had a bug coming on. Meh. I think I can feel the beginnings of the weights working but that might be wishful thinking.
Heard again from the lady on UKC, which is nice, and was v chuffed that C suggested climbing Troutdale Pinacle, as we'd originally planned to a while ago. As it happens I think I'll enjoy that (from a climbing point of view at least and frankly that's what it is!) even more by now than I would have then.
I'm re-reading the 9 out of 10 climbers book and getting loads out of it. I particularly like the distinction between climbing and practice, and the idea of slow practice with thought compared to routes where thinking needs to be kept to a minimum. I had a vague feeling of this but it's much clearer in my mind now.
Tuesday, January 31, 2012
Saturday, January 28, 2012
Tired!
I didn't know I was going to get the chance to go climbing today. I took P for a run in St Leonard's Forest in the morning, came back, had a bath then did some yoga. Then Ben mentioned climbing so clearly ...
Went to Redhill. Got up a 5 that I didn't manage at all last time, but at the end I didn't get up one I did last time - just couldn't for the life of me remember how I'd done it. I could remember the shape, the patter of the move, but not how it actually fitted to what was there. Ben came off the vicious 3+ a couple of times and banged his elbow. I got about a third up it again. We both got up a short route (about 4 meters to a little tower) labeled 6b+ but clearly it can't have been that. The holds were few and small though and it was mainly features. It was quite balancey. Ben managed a 6a beside it but I couldn't (clearly the other route's misgraded but I'm glad we did it.
Very tired now. Off for a curry.
Went to Redhill. Got up a 5 that I didn't manage at all last time, but at the end I didn't get up one I did last time - just couldn't for the life of me remember how I'd done it. I could remember the shape, the patter of the move, but not how it actually fitted to what was there. Ben came off the vicious 3+ a couple of times and banged his elbow. I got about a third up it again. We both got up a short route (about 4 meters to a little tower) labeled 6b+ but clearly it can't have been that. The holds were few and small though and it was mainly features. It was quite balancey. Ben managed a 6a beside it but I couldn't (clearly the other route's misgraded but I'm glad we did it.
Very tired now. Off for a curry.
Friday, January 27, 2012
Left foot, right foot
Yesterday P and I ran a bit further than we have run before. Just a bit - about 800 yards probably. It makes me pleased because this is about the third of fourth time I've done a stint of occasional running, and each time, the furthest point I got to was the same - 5k. This time I'm aiming for a half marathon, but it's just a subsidiary thing, and no hurry. I know P won't run that far, but I think she'll be running with me for a good while yet.
Today I'll be tackling a new set of arm and shoulder exercises. I'll cut back the yoga to just 10 minutes or so. Learning new exercises is a right hassle, I always forget what a pain it is. Too much of a technophobe to use a DVD so I balance the book open in front of me. Makes the cat smirk.
Have a plan for next visit to Crawley: 3 times up the 4, to work on stamina. Then next time I'll have a look at the 5 again.
Bloke re the Peak district has gone quiet since I told him my standard. Never mind.
I booked a ticket for the talk in London. The Royal Geographical Society - v posh-sounding.
PS I haven't found any blogs written by people who climb at my level (funny that - the rest have more sense/modesty) so I follow the blogs of people who are out-of-sight better. Probably better to read that anyway, except that loads of it is pretty remote from my experience. Anyway, liked this from Stevie Haston's latest:
"dead is where you don’t get to practise a good screw!"
http://steviehaston.blogspot.com/2012/01/grivel-360-ice-screw-by-stevie-haston.html
Today I'll be tackling a new set of arm and shoulder exercises. I'll cut back the yoga to just 10 minutes or so. Learning new exercises is a right hassle, I always forget what a pain it is. Too much of a technophobe to use a DVD so I balance the book open in front of me. Makes the cat smirk.
Have a plan for next visit to Crawley: 3 times up the 4, to work on stamina. Then next time I'll have a look at the 5 again.
Bloke re the Peak district has gone quiet since I told him my standard. Never mind.
I booked a ticket for the talk in London. The Royal Geographical Society - v posh-sounding.
PS I haven't found any blogs written by people who climb at my level (funny that - the rest have more sense/modesty) so I follow the blogs of people who are out-of-sight better. Probably better to read that anyway, except that loads of it is pretty remote from my experience. Anyway, liked this from Stevie Haston's latest:
"dead is where you don’t get to practise a good screw!"
http://steviehaston.blogspot.com/2012/01/grivel-360-ice-screw-by-stevie-haston.html
Wednesday, January 25, 2012
Yay!
Another cracking visit to the wall this evening. Got up the 4+ that I came off twice last time - and couldn't really see why it had been an issue. Got up a new 5 that I'm really chuffed with: it felt so impossible to start with. The holds were overhanging and out of reach. Turned out the solution was flagging as I stood up but having only one hand and one foot in place each time felt very weak. Repeatedly recently I've noticed there are some moves that look way more intimidating from just below than they actually feel once you've got the balance etc right to make them.
On the other hand, this didn't happen with the 3+ which has been bugging me for weeks. I got about halfway up it today. The simple truth is you need strong hands and you need to move quickly. I'll get the rest of it soon.
I watched the girl I spoke to on Monday night again. She's like a much better version of me, in how she moves - definitely something I can aspire to.
There's a particular move I'm beginning to get the feel of. It's turning sideways, holding myself in against the wall, and getting weight over a leg bent up high under me. It's getting better.
Also I notice that if my feet slip completely off the wall now, I can hold myself long enough to get them back on. I couldn't do that until recently.
K and I talked about our aims for this year. I said that mine had been to climb 6A by the end of it, but I'm hoping I might be able to bring that forward a bit. He's hoping to get up 6b's by the end and frankly I'm sure he'll do that sooner - he's done one already.
I read about a talk in London that I'd love to go to in early Feb by Dave MacLeod. Don't think the piggy bank will stretch to it though because I stupidly spent money on [non-climbing] clothes yesterday. (I was just so chuffed to fit into size 10 trousers!)
A guy I encountered on the net has offered to climb with me in the Peak district. He's way better than I am; I explained this but he seems ok about it. We'll see - for both people it's always rather a shot in the dark to meet on the net for something outdoors and rather distant. But if I do the sandstone stuff locally with D, and then possibly go to the Peak... this is starting to look rather good. If C does come good on things in the long run, then it will look very good indeed :)
On the other hand, this didn't happen with the 3+ which has been bugging me for weeks. I got about halfway up it today. The simple truth is you need strong hands and you need to move quickly. I'll get the rest of it soon.
I watched the girl I spoke to on Monday night again. She's like a much better version of me, in how she moves - definitely something I can aspire to.
There's a particular move I'm beginning to get the feel of. It's turning sideways, holding myself in against the wall, and getting weight over a leg bent up high under me. It's getting better.
Also I notice that if my feet slip completely off the wall now, I can hold myself long enough to get them back on. I couldn't do that until recently.
K and I talked about our aims for this year. I said that mine had been to climb 6A by the end of it, but I'm hoping I might be able to bring that forward a bit. He's hoping to get up 6b's by the end and frankly I'm sure he'll do that sooner - he's done one already.
I read about a talk in London that I'd love to go to in early Feb by Dave MacLeod. Don't think the piggy bank will stretch to it though because I stupidly spent money on [non-climbing] clothes yesterday. (I was just so chuffed to fit into size 10 trousers!)
A guy I encountered on the net has offered to climb with me in the Peak district. He's way better than I am; I explained this but he seems ok about it. We'll see - for both people it's always rather a shot in the dark to meet on the net for something outdoors and rather distant. But if I do the sandstone stuff locally with D, and then possibly go to the Peak... this is starting to look rather good. If C does come good on things in the long run, then it will look very good indeed :)
Monday, January 23, 2012
Effort...
Yoga in the morning, and then climbed with Kevin.
Realised I'd left my chalk bag in Crawley - hope it's found its way to lost property there, must call them tomorrow about it.
This evening I was foiled by a new 4+ - a small pinchy hold on the right and a big reach to the left; might get it next week. Got up a 5. Had a go at a 5+, very steep over hang (right upside down) but with big holds, but no way to support with the legs (well, no way for me just now - need more core strength) so came straight off. I'll get there though. I think apart from anything else I need to be quick on it.
Tomorrow I'll run beyond the 5k mark in the middle of a field that I use for the first time. Small thing but good. And do the arms/back section of the pilates book.
I do know that I stop earlier than I should do on routes just now. I'm scared not of falling, but of hurting myself. I don't think that's really likely - I mean pulling something or whatever. I think it would be more repetitive stuff that would do that. Find it hard to motivate myself to push really hard. Kevin rarely does and never more than once on a route or in an evening. Can't blame him though, I need to find it in myself. I do want it.
PS - couple more things. I noticed a woman whose climbing I admried; she was quite short, not fat but not skinny either, but climbed well. I asked later how long she'd been climbing and she said 2 years.
Yesterday in Crawley as I was labouring up the auto-belay route there was a man beside me making rather a lot of noise - lots of huffing and puffing. One or two of his friends down the bottom were calling out encouragement. They didn't seem to be very big moves he was making so I couldn't really see what the fuss was about. Then just after he got to the bottom, a little lad went running up to a woman who'd just arrived and shouted, "My dad's just got up a 7c with a broken collar-bone!"
Realised I'd left my chalk bag in Crawley - hope it's found its way to lost property there, must call them tomorrow about it.
This evening I was foiled by a new 4+ - a small pinchy hold on the right and a big reach to the left; might get it next week. Got up a 5. Had a go at a 5+, very steep over hang (right upside down) but with big holds, but no way to support with the legs (well, no way for me just now - need more core strength) so came straight off. I'll get there though. I think apart from anything else I need to be quick on it.
Tomorrow I'll run beyond the 5k mark in the middle of a field that I use for the first time. Small thing but good. And do the arms/back section of the pilates book.
I do know that I stop earlier than I should do on routes just now. I'm scared not of falling, but of hurting myself. I don't think that's really likely - I mean pulling something or whatever. I think it would be more repetitive stuff that would do that. Find it hard to motivate myself to push really hard. Kevin rarely does and never more than once on a route or in an evening. Can't blame him though, I need to find it in myself. I do want it.
PS - couple more things. I noticed a woman whose climbing I admried; she was quite short, not fat but not skinny either, but climbed well. I asked later how long she'd been climbing and she said 2 years.
Yesterday in Crawley as I was labouring up the auto-belay route there was a man beside me making rather a lot of noise - lots of huffing and puffing. One or two of his friends down the bottom were calling out encouragement. They didn't seem to be very big moves he was making so I couldn't really see what the fuss was about. Then just after he got to the bottom, a little lad went running up to a woman who'd just arrived and shouted, "My dad's just got up a 7c with a broken collar-bone!"
Sunday, January 22, 2012
Good news and bad
Went to Crawley.
Well the bad news is that I didn't get to to the top of the 4 on the auto-belay. I decided to focus on the 5 instead and managed to tire myself out (some) on it. In retrospect I should have pushed myself up the 4 at least once too even though I knew it wasn't the most technically taxing thing I could be doing.
Good news: I had a go at bouldering, looked a right tit but really enjoyed it. Learned loads, not least that falling off isn't actually that common: you climb down a bit to where you can then just jump from. Really glad I made [another] start at this. I know I've started before but I'm more determined to persist now.
At the end of my session I noticed a guy using the auto-belay, and persuaded myself to go over and offer to belay for him. I'd already got my trainers on and ended up using that as an excuse not to climb myself but hey, still progress. He says he's not likely to go back to that wall - not local and finds it expensive - but did offer to meet up and climb on Sandstone some time, which he does most weekends; have exchanged phone numbers.
Well the bad news is that I didn't get to to the top of the 4 on the auto-belay. I decided to focus on the 5 instead and managed to tire myself out (some) on it. In retrospect I should have pushed myself up the 4 at least once too even though I knew it wasn't the most technically taxing thing I could be doing.
Good news: I had a go at bouldering, looked a right tit but really enjoyed it. Learned loads, not least that falling off isn't actually that common: you climb down a bit to where you can then just jump from. Really glad I made [another] start at this. I know I've started before but I'm more determined to persist now.
At the end of my session I noticed a guy using the auto-belay, and persuaded myself to go over and offer to belay for him. I'd already got my trainers on and ended up using that as an excuse not to climb myself but hey, still progress. He says he's not likely to go back to that wall - not local and finds it expensive - but did offer to meet up and climb on Sandstone some time, which he does most weekends; have exchanged phone numbers.
Saturday, January 21, 2012
Run on the Downs
Another run on Mickleham Downs; ran up the hills this time too but they are very small.
Kevin texted to say he's free to climb on Monday.
The usual "I hate it" feeling about using the gadget tomorrow. Chucking myself off it will be even more fun. Odd how satisfying it is to have something to square up to, and how it doesn't matter how trivial.
Kevin texted to say he's free to climb on Monday.
The usual "I hate it" feeling about using the gadget tomorrow. Chucking myself off it will be even more fun. Odd how satisfying it is to have something to square up to, and how it doesn't matter how trivial.
Friday, January 20, 2012
9 out of 10 book, and pilates
First session with Pilates book; v good but I'd forgotten what a hassle it is to be learning new exercises from a book - terribly slow.
9 Out of 10 Climbers book arrived. Clearly not written for people at my level but v interesting read anyway. Realised that I need to practice actually falling off the blooming auto-belay thing, not just coming down it; I'll never get the best out of it otherwise. Must tackle bouldering too, and make an effort with what-I-have-for-arms.
9 Out of 10 Climbers book arrived. Clearly not written for people at my level but v interesting read anyway. Realised that I need to practice actually falling off the blooming auto-belay thing, not just coming down it; I'll never get the best out of it otherwise. Must tackle bouldering too, and make an effort with what-I-have-for-arms.
Thursday, January 19, 2012
Cracking run
Today I did my first ever attempt at running intervals. The idea is that this will help me to run a bit faster. So far I've always just run as far as I feel I can, then either turned round or made a loop, all at a steady plod. This time I went about 3/4 of last run's distance, steady plod, then on the way back sprinted between various trees, bits of leaf etc. It was superb! Felt absolutely great - the buz I normally get at the end of running, several times. So I'm really encouraged by that. Must remember to drink again promptly after I get home though.
Wednesday, January 18, 2012
Wall etc
I sorted out the money and booked my place on the class in Birmingham - and a bed for the night with friends, and a curry to say thank you.
Bought a book on Pilates. I'm not happy with the weights book I'm using - screwing up my back isn't good.
Paid for a 30 day pass at the wall - will cover Redhill and Crawley.
Emailed the lady from UKC and said I'd happily go to Weymouth some of the time; haven't heard back so maybe she's sorted.
Then: climbed with Kevin. Seem to be squarely placed on getting up or working on 5s now, and one 4 that we both agree is low-graded. There's a new blue I want to get up; need to keep moving smoothly and be bold but balancey on it. Also there's a green opposite I fancy - big reaches and slightly overhanging. That also needs boldness I think and maybe some more thoughtful footwork - features I bet... Didn't try the magenta one this time. Managed to get the crossing-over bit on the lilacs (interesting how hard it is to do a route a better way once I've learned a way that just works).
Best moment: getting up the purple 5 on the slopey slab that used to feel just impossible. That was lots of rock-overs. V chuffed with that (thought it is several months since it seemed impossible).
I seem to be getting better each week just now and I know I'm likely to plateau in a bit. Tempting to think I'll worry about that when it happens, but before then I'd like to get some good habits in place.
Bought a book on Pilates. I'm not happy with the weights book I'm using - screwing up my back isn't good.
Paid for a 30 day pass at the wall - will cover Redhill and Crawley.
Emailed the lady from UKC and said I'd happily go to Weymouth some of the time; haven't heard back so maybe she's sorted.
Then: climbed with Kevin. Seem to be squarely placed on getting up or working on 5s now, and one 4 that we both agree is low-graded. There's a new blue I want to get up; need to keep moving smoothly and be bold but balancey on it. Also there's a green opposite I fancy - big reaches and slightly overhanging. That also needs boldness I think and maybe some more thoughtful footwork - features I bet... Didn't try the magenta one this time. Managed to get the crossing-over bit on the lilacs (interesting how hard it is to do a route a better way once I've learned a way that just works).
Best moment: getting up the purple 5 on the slopey slab that used to feel just impossible. That was lots of rock-overs. V chuffed with that (thought it is several months since it seemed impossible).
I seem to be getting better each week just now and I know I'm likely to plateau in a bit. Tempting to think I'll worry about that when it happens, but before then I'd like to get some good habits in place.
Yesterday
A few notes about yesterday.
I ran 5k for the first time since August. It went well, didn't feel too tired, although I had lots of breaks because of having to sort out Pippa. Yoga, and I spent a while working on chaturange (bit like a push up). It eludes me still be I'm getting closer. Weights - used the 5kg ones for the first time again since August, for one exercise.
Ordered a copy of 9 Out of 10 Climbers. I've had it on my wishlist for a while but I think I'm in a state where I could benefit from it now.
Saw a BMC touring masterclass advertised on UKC which I'd like to go to. Aimed at people who climb 5-6b, but it's in 2 months time so I hope I'll be securely in at least the bottom end of that by then. It's taught by a woman too which helps. The London date is full up already; I'm hoping to go to the Birmingham one but it will take me a couple of days now to sort out money for it; I hope there are places left.
Contacted a woman on UKC who was looking for a partner; she's in Worthing so not very close but she says she's happy to go to K2. She climbs 5+ but wants to improve; sounds ideal. This would be in addition to Ben and Kevin. All good; we'll see.
Less brilliantly, I've got a persistent twinge today in my right - well, buttock frankly, running from top of the thigh to my lower back. I'm pretty sure this is from foul reverse leg lifts - I find them virtually impossible; yesterday I pushed hard at them and I suspect buggered my lower back a bit. I'll drop them for a while and take it easy today (still climbing tonight though!)
I ran 5k for the first time since August. It went well, didn't feel too tired, although I had lots of breaks because of having to sort out Pippa. Yoga, and I spent a while working on chaturange (bit like a push up). It eludes me still be I'm getting closer. Weights - used the 5kg ones for the first time again since August, for one exercise.
Ordered a copy of 9 Out of 10 Climbers. I've had it on my wishlist for a while but I think I'm in a state where I could benefit from it now.
Saw a BMC touring masterclass advertised on UKC which I'd like to go to. Aimed at people who climb 5-6b, but it's in 2 months time so I hope I'll be securely in at least the bottom end of that by then. It's taught by a woman too which helps. The London date is full up already; I'm hoping to go to the Birmingham one but it will take me a couple of days now to sort out money for it; I hope there are places left.
Contacted a woman on UKC who was looking for a partner; she's in Worthing so not very close but she says she's happy to go to K2. She climbs 5+ but wants to improve; sounds ideal. This would be in addition to Ben and Kevin. All good; we'll see.
Less brilliantly, I've got a persistent twinge today in my right - well, buttock frankly, running from top of the thigh to my lower back. I'm pretty sure this is from foul reverse leg lifts - I find them virtually impossible; yesterday I pushed hard at them and I suspect buggered my lower back a bit. I'll drop them for a while and take it easy today (still climbing tonight though!)
Monday, January 16, 2012
Eye candy
Today I was in London most of the time, rambling about and so on.
On the way in I called at Oxfam and bought a book I'd seen in the window: Top Climbs of The World. It's huge format with loads of pictures. Quite often in the evenings I've fancied having some really glossy pictures of climbs I could ogle at and use for inspiration so I'm chuffed with this. Oh and also a book by Chris Bonnington.
On the way in I called at Oxfam and bought a book I'd seen in the window: Top Climbs of The World. It's huge format with loads of pictures. Quite often in the evenings I've fancied having some really glossy pictures of climbs I could ogle at and use for inspiration so I'm chuffed with this. Oh and also a book by Chris Bonnington.
Sunday, January 15, 2012
Success!
Got to the top of the 4 on the auto-belay. Then I went up the 5 and got - hard to say, maybe half way. I think I'd have got to the top with a human belayer. I'm really chuffed with this because I found the fear quite something. The thing that really helped was making myself rest at certain points but not letting myself come down.
While I was resting I saw 2 young girls climbing. Aged... dunno, 14-18 maybe - very slim, not curvy, gangly limbs but adult height. One of them had a High Sports top on. She went up the 5 I'd been on as a warm-up. The main difference was how much she twisted around - like an eel. C had tried to teach me this and I think I got a bit better, but watching it was very helpful.
I'm wondering about getting a month's membership for the wall. But it wouldn't cover rock-club. Hmm.
While I was resting I saw 2 young girls climbing. Aged... dunno, 14-18 maybe - very slim, not curvy, gangly limbs but adult height. One of them had a High Sports top on. She went up the 5 I'd been on as a warm-up. The main difference was how much she twisted around - like an eel. C had tried to teach me this and I think I got a bit better, but watching it was very helpful.
I'm wondering about getting a month's membership for the wall. But it wouldn't cover rock-club. Hmm.
Saturday, January 14, 2012
Another good day
Went for a run on Mickleham Down. Running along between hedges completely covered in frost - and the views go for miles in the winter through bare branches. P didn't get tired. Near the end we met a lady round a corner who apologised for the scared stance of her dog. "Normally she's only like this when there's a horse coming up" - so apparently I sound like a horse. Or Pippa does, maybe...?
Then yoga and weights. Yoga went v well. Weights - I can see from my notebook that I did a lot more in August. But that was after only a couple of weeks: I think I might get back to the same place pretty quickly.
I should take a camera for some pictures for this blog. Not easy to get them at the wall - you're either up there or belaying - but some of a run would still be nice to ornament the place a bit.
Tomorrow I'll go to Crawley to play on the auto-gadget. I'm determined to dragoon myself up to the top this time. Shorter session this time though.
Then yoga and weights. Yoga went v well. Weights - I can see from my notebook that I did a lot more in August. But that was after only a couple of weeks: I think I might get back to the same place pretty quickly.
I should take a camera for some pictures for this blog. Not easy to get them at the wall - you're either up there or belaying - but some of a run would still be nice to ornament the place a bit.
Tomorrow I'll go to Crawley to play on the auto-gadget. I'm determined to dragoon myself up to the top this time. Shorter session this time though.
Friday, January 13, 2012
Cracking visit to the wall
Went to the wall with Ben this evening and had a storming time - I was really chuffed. They'd put up very few new routes: I got up a new 5 first time (tbh I suspect it's a bit over-graded; Ben found it tricky but that was because he was cramped under an overhang). Then - this is the bit I'm really excited about - I got more than halfway up a 6A. Go me. Clearly since this is Redhill, more than half way means about 10 inches off the ground but never mind... the main thing is I suspect in about another couple of weeks, I might well do all of it.
Also got up the 4+ I managed the first time on Wednesday but did it much better this time - no messing about and it felt good.
And also got 2/3 up a purple I'd worked on with Chris. I did however fall off that, swing way out, and end up knocking the side end wall - just gently. I'm v chuffed about this bit because I was doing miles better - was able to do things I just couldn't make work before and also B said I looked as though the right moves came naturally. That's a first.
I realise this entry is going to sound horribly conceited when I read it back. Oh well.
I also did weights and yoga this morning - both went well.
Also got up the 4+ I managed the first time on Wednesday but did it much better this time - no messing about and it felt good.
And also got 2/3 up a purple I'd worked on with Chris. I did however fall off that, swing way out, and end up knocking the side end wall - just gently. I'm v chuffed about this bit because I was doing miles better - was able to do things I just couldn't make work before and also B said I looked as though the right moves came naturally. That's a first.
I realise this entry is going to sound horribly conceited when I read it back. Oh well.
I also did weights and yoga this morning - both went well.
Wednesday, January 11, 2012
All things pass - and a good evening
Well. Yesterday evening I had an argument with C, with whom apart from anything else I've had wonderful times in the Lakes and who introduced me to climbing. He pulled the plug, very suddenly, to avoid further conflict. It was a huge shock. I got 10 minutes sleep last night.
So today I did yoga and weights but forgot meditation, or rather just couldn't face it; didn't go for a walk. I will be running tomorrow.
Then this evening I went to the wall. I told K very roughly what had happened but without the details I doubt it makes much sense. To my amazement I had a good evening. Somehow the dictum of "don't think about it" came really easily and I got up 3 new routes! A 4, a 4+ and a 5.
The 4 had a huge overhang - I was almost totally upside down, but on enormous holds; the last seemed a big reach but I got it the 2nd time. I kept moving briskly and found it far less difficult than I expected.
The 4+ is one with a slight overhang, in 2 steps, which has spat me off repeatedly and felt impossible before. I got up it by putting in lots of little steps, some on features, some smearing.
The 5 was in a chimney. I'm really chuffed with that - not only with getting up but with trying it. Come to think of it, I got up first time. So I've done two 5's now.
Kevin the instructor (who was busy with others and we didn't really feel the need of him) asked about Scotland and whether I had photos. I want to print out some climbing and walking pics and put them in an album.
It feels good to climb just for myself. Very bittersweet though. Today it came easily to work hard.
So today I did yoga and weights but forgot meditation, or rather just couldn't face it; didn't go for a walk. I will be running tomorrow.
Then this evening I went to the wall. I told K very roughly what had happened but without the details I doubt it makes much sense. To my amazement I had a good evening. Somehow the dictum of "don't think about it" came really easily and I got up 3 new routes! A 4, a 4+ and a 5.
The 4 had a huge overhang - I was almost totally upside down, but on enormous holds; the last seemed a big reach but I got it the 2nd time. I kept moving briskly and found it far less difficult than I expected.
The 4+ is one with a slight overhang, in 2 steps, which has spat me off repeatedly and felt impossible before. I got up it by putting in lots of little steps, some on features, some smearing.
The 5 was in a chimney. I'm really chuffed with that - not only with getting up but with trying it. Come to think of it, I got up first time. So I've done two 5's now.
Kevin the instructor (who was busy with others and we didn't really feel the need of him) asked about Scotland and whether I had photos. I want to print out some climbing and walking pics and put them in an album.
It feels good to climb just for myself. Very bittersweet though. Today it came easily to work hard.
Sunday, January 8, 2012
Auto belay fun
Today I went to the wall in Crawley at about 2:30 and used the auto-belay there for a while. I'm very glad I went but I did climb really badly because I had bad nerves on the thing. A few things to note for next time:
1. Bring something to eat - more than one thing, both small, and obviously water. This is not just for eating but to create breaks. (I found it really tiring. Later on I discovered they're often used to train for endurance so that figures.)
2. Get there really early in the hope of having the gadget to yourself. Bring a book to read if you need to put in the time.
3. Don't waste energy on climbing down - it's not a doddle and the gadget isn't going to care whether you make good use of each trip up and down.
4. Before each trip up, set a point on the wall and determine to get at least that far. Pretend there's someone at the bottom of the rope wanting you to do it.
On the plus side, I found my reach seems to have got a lot further. I suspect I'd easily get to the top of that pink now if I was doing it with a partner, and suprisingly the green next to it is OK at the bottom too - haven't got far up yet though.
Later I took P quickly round the rec. Intend to do quite a bit tomorrow; we'll see.
Next time I'm going to force myself to have a go at bouldering as well.
1. Bring something to eat - more than one thing, both small, and obviously water. This is not just for eating but to create breaks. (I found it really tiring. Later on I discovered they're often used to train for endurance so that figures.)
2. Get there really early in the hope of having the gadget to yourself. Bring a book to read if you need to put in the time.
3. Don't waste energy on climbing down - it's not a doddle and the gadget isn't going to care whether you make good use of each trip up and down.
4. Before each trip up, set a point on the wall and determine to get at least that far. Pretend there's someone at the bottom of the rope wanting you to do it.
On the plus side, I found my reach seems to have got a lot further. I suspect I'd easily get to the top of that pink now if I was doing it with a partner, and suprisingly the green next to it is OK at the bottom too - haven't got far up yet though.
Later I took P quickly round the rec. Intend to do quite a bit tomorrow; we'll see.
Next time I'm going to force myself to have a go at bouldering as well.
Monday, January 2, 2012
catch up
Climbed at Crawley with Kevin. Very grateful for the chance but not many routes at my level. Did see the auto-belay is in a better place though so I'll have another go on that.
Climbed with Chris in Redhill - so, so glad I did that. Learned loads. Must push a lot harder on things. More about keeping going on repeated attempts.
Went for a quick run today with P on Holmwood Common.
Have decided to aim for 9st 12. Currently 10 5. Don't want this blog to become just about weight though. That and some work on the arms will help I think.
Climbed with Chris in Redhill - so, so glad I did that. Learned loads. Must push a lot harder on things. More about keeping going on repeated attempts.
Went for a quick run today with P on Holmwood Common.
Have decided to aim for 9st 12. Currently 10 5. Don't want this blog to become just about weight though. That and some work on the arms will help I think.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)