Thursday, December 27, 2012
Why
I was thinking just now of the qualities I value most. Ingenuity, tenacity, patience came to mind first. Then I realised that these are all things which cannot be exercised in a vacuum: they need a problem to strive against. It's like a wall you can push off, or like swimming in water rather than air.
Climbing is resistance. A problem which demonstrates a theorem.
Tuesday, November 20, 2012
A bit better
Climbed in Redhill with K. Got up something graded 6b+ but clearly it can't be; still they reckon it's about 6a which would make it my first. Quite chuffed.
Monday, October 29, 2012
Crawley
Today I went to Rock Club in Crawley. It was the first time I'd gone to that for more than six months - first time in Crawley other than on the auto-belay for nearly as long too. I was a bit anxious about it because I remember when I went to it before they were all much better than I was and it felt slightly cliquey.
Well today it made no odds what they were like since they weren't there! It was just me. The instructor was a guy called James, 18 years old, friendly. More into running than climbing and injured, but he went up some routes, in trainers, and it was interesting to watch him. Ha - at the start he produced a ground anchor and assumed we'd need one on account of his being heavier than me. Thinking about it, I must have misheard what he said he was, which sounded like 55 (kg. Anyway he was no problem to belay. Dunno how he found me - he was using a Gris-gris anyway.
I went up some 5's, the odd 4, some 5+'s (failed dismally on one of them - fully of slopey holds I got nowhere on; J kindly said he thought it was more of a 6 and I'd agree but then maybe I would). Tackled two 6a's, one on the shorter vertical wall near the till, which is a bit beyond me still - need to get better at moving my feet up to where my hands are, better balance, and stronger - as much in the legs as the arms. The other I think I'm a lot closer to getting up, on the main wall, round about 17. It was red. On that one I mainly need to get used to where the holds are - there's a dark pink up the same panel - and also get used to leaning sideways on side-pulls. But I think if I also work on stamina, I'll get up that fairly soon. Maybe next visit but one? I think oddly enough my 6a's might come in Crawley rather than Redhill.
Friday, August 24, 2012
First outdoor lead
Sunday, April 1, 2012
Can't edit: more things to learn
Can't see how to edit the post below to add this: on re-reading it's clear I also need to learn:
- how to climb cracks
- to do do laybacks
- how to be better at traverses
- how to climb cracks
- to do do laybacks
- how to be better at traverses
Obituary Grooves
After Troutdale Pinnacle we were still pretty energetic so we went over to Brown Crag and had a go at a route there called Why Not. C got up it but found it really tough and I had no idea how to leave the ground on it. NB: must practice climbing cracks - they feel intimidatingly like something that Proper Climbers do but clearly that's something I want to become so I'd better begin to learn.
Anyway we ran out of water so we called it a day.
We decided to do Obituary Grooves on Sunday. C suggested it, and I agreed. In retrospect I'd have been better off on something of a middling grade, but the Why Not was supposed to be that and clearly wasn't, so the grade isn't terribly helpful.
On Sunday we arrived after a good breakfast and found the crag busy already. I was a bit wrong-footed that there were several people wanting to do the same route as us: I'd gambled that it was less well-known and so my struggles would be more out of people's way. Not so.
The first pitch certainly isn't the hardest but it was right on the edge of what I could do. I loved it but I knew I looked to the guy belaying below me to be on the wrong climb for my standard. I stopped caring about that, which was just as well, because no doubt I looked like that for the next few hours.
The challenge came on the second pitch. C found it pretty tricky and had to make quite a big effort on it. I didn't find that too intimidating because I had come looking for exactly that.
I remember setting off round a tree. It was hard but I found a way to do it. Just above and beyond the tree was a move where there really weren't any obvious footholds at usable level. I believe the normal thing there is to layback. It's a tricky version of it and I'm weak at them. After a few minutes I decided to turn my back to the rock, put my hands up just above my waist, brace my left foot against the rock, and push myself up that way. I tried again and again and again and again and again and again. I was sure I couldn't do it any other way. I didn't think about not getting up. At one point I swung right out and shouted "Oh Christ" and the people just below said, "Are you OK up there?" Round about then I stood on the holds below and rested my forehead against the rock. I thought to myself, this is very hard, and I'm going to do it. Nothing else - no great perceptions. When it did actually work, about the sixth time, I was so surprised I nearly lost my grip!
There were some easier moves for a while and then I came to the other big tricky bit of that pitch. I was right over the ropes of a team doing a route to our right which rattled me a bit. I misundertood where our route went because - bless me - I couldn't believe it was where it really was, I was sure the right line would be easier (ie would look possible) and must be higher up.
Eventually I sussed where the route went. It was a short traverse with very little for the feet, and the handholds (as I remember) were side-pulls. I should have crossed it briskly but I didn't. I lost momentum; I did get across but I lost height, and the move up from would have been hard for me even from a strong start. I didn't manage it cleanly, and got up by scrabbling and shouting "take" every few seconds, to have my every inch or so of gain kept for me. I suppose I was pulled up a bit too though I'm not sure.
The easy moves between the traverse and the belay didn't feel easy to me because I was very tired. The stance was cramped which disappointed me because I was too tired to realise at the start that I was ok to relax in such a precarious place. We watched the group to the right of us come up, the middle one having difficulty. Just above us he found things impossible and I think ended up catch C with a foot or something. C climbed back down to the belay (with difficulty) and decided we'd abseil down, all things considered.
I was very very scared. I thought I might be about to die. This was probably partly because I was tired, but also a misunderstanding of the thing about abseils: you just have to get it right. I feared the descent would be hard or impossible to control. I knew I had to just get on with it and the back of my mind trusted that it would be OK (it would have been possible, one way or another, to get up, and C had opted to go down through choice).
Anyway C set everything up with great care, and set off, and was fine. I could even see him, very small, at the bottom. It was about 150 feet below. By that stage I was slightly less scared but not much. In the moment as I began to lower myself - or rather try to lower, and realised how solid the rope felt and how in fact progress would be really slow, the fear went. I was told later at the wall that there's a way of using a prussik that would have made me descent more smoothly, but I think next time I wouldn't bother with one anyway.
Had a pretty nice moment emotionally at the top of pitch 2, too.
It's odd that I'd count this as my best experience climbing. I was totally out of my depth, I was in people's way, and we didn't reach the top. What made it so good? I went right up to my limit and persistently pushed at it, and prevailed. It's only writing it down now that I realise this was both in terms of the moves upwards, and the abseil down. I feel a massive sense of accomplishment.
The weekend's climbs were also very useful in clarifying what I'm good at and what I need to work at. I'm good at finding a way/ any way to do things. I'm not bad at dealing with exposure, and I'm not bad at keeping going (outdoors at least). I need to work on smearing, rocking over, rope-work, and arm/shoulder strength.
Having 2 days to climb was great. Doing one more feasible climb and then one more challenging one worked really well too. I think I'd opt to do it by train and local bus next time, but knowing the car was there waiting was a great luxury. If I had all the money in the world I'd go up by train to say Penrith and then hire one from there. But a carefully noted bus timetable would be nearly as good!
Anyway we ran out of water so we called it a day.
We decided to do Obituary Grooves on Sunday. C suggested it, and I agreed. In retrospect I'd have been better off on something of a middling grade, but the Why Not was supposed to be that and clearly wasn't, so the grade isn't terribly helpful.
On Sunday we arrived after a good breakfast and found the crag busy already. I was a bit wrong-footed that there were several people wanting to do the same route as us: I'd gambled that it was less well-known and so my struggles would be more out of people's way. Not so.
The first pitch certainly isn't the hardest but it was right on the edge of what I could do. I loved it but I knew I looked to the guy belaying below me to be on the wrong climb for my standard. I stopped caring about that, which was just as well, because no doubt I looked like that for the next few hours.
The challenge came on the second pitch. C found it pretty tricky and had to make quite a big effort on it. I didn't find that too intimidating because I had come looking for exactly that.
I remember setting off round a tree. It was hard but I found a way to do it. Just above and beyond the tree was a move where there really weren't any obvious footholds at usable level. I believe the normal thing there is to layback. It's a tricky version of it and I'm weak at them. After a few minutes I decided to turn my back to the rock, put my hands up just above my waist, brace my left foot against the rock, and push myself up that way. I tried again and again and again and again and again and again. I was sure I couldn't do it any other way. I didn't think about not getting up. At one point I swung right out and shouted "Oh Christ" and the people just below said, "Are you OK up there?" Round about then I stood on the holds below and rested my forehead against the rock. I thought to myself, this is very hard, and I'm going to do it. Nothing else - no great perceptions. When it did actually work, about the sixth time, I was so surprised I nearly lost my grip!
There were some easier moves for a while and then I came to the other big tricky bit of that pitch. I was right over the ropes of a team doing a route to our right which rattled me a bit. I misundertood where our route went because - bless me - I couldn't believe it was where it really was, I was sure the right line would be easier (ie would look possible) and must be higher up.
Eventually I sussed where the route went. It was a short traverse with very little for the feet, and the handholds (as I remember) were side-pulls. I should have crossed it briskly but I didn't. I lost momentum; I did get across but I lost height, and the move up from would have been hard for me even from a strong start. I didn't manage it cleanly, and got up by scrabbling and shouting "take" every few seconds, to have my every inch or so of gain kept for me. I suppose I was pulled up a bit too though I'm not sure.
The easy moves between the traverse and the belay didn't feel easy to me because I was very tired. The stance was cramped which disappointed me because I was too tired to realise at the start that I was ok to relax in such a precarious place. We watched the group to the right of us come up, the middle one having difficulty. Just above us he found things impossible and I think ended up catch C with a foot or something. C climbed back down to the belay (with difficulty) and decided we'd abseil down, all things considered.
I was very very scared. I thought I might be about to die. This was probably partly because I was tired, but also a misunderstanding of the thing about abseils: you just have to get it right. I feared the descent would be hard or impossible to control. I knew I had to just get on with it and the back of my mind trusted that it would be OK (it would have been possible, one way or another, to get up, and C had opted to go down through choice).
Anyway C set everything up with great care, and set off, and was fine. I could even see him, very small, at the bottom. It was about 150 feet below. By that stage I was slightly less scared but not much. In the moment as I began to lower myself - or rather try to lower, and realised how solid the rope felt and how in fact progress would be really slow, the fear went. I was told later at the wall that there's a way of using a prussik that would have made me descent more smoothly, but I think next time I wouldn't bother with one anyway.
Had a pretty nice moment emotionally at the top of pitch 2, too.
It's odd that I'd count this as my best experience climbing. I was totally out of my depth, I was in people's way, and we didn't reach the top. What made it so good? I went right up to my limit and persistently pushed at it, and prevailed. It's only writing it down now that I realise this was both in terms of the moves upwards, and the abseil down. I feel a massive sense of accomplishment.
The weekend's climbs were also very useful in clarifying what I'm good at and what I need to work at. I'm good at finding a way/ any way to do things. I'm not bad at dealing with exposure, and I'm not bad at keeping going (outdoors at least). I need to work on smearing, rocking over, rope-work, and arm/shoulder strength.
Having 2 days to climb was great. Doing one more feasible climb and then one more challenging one worked really well too. I think I'd opt to do it by train and local bus next time, but knowing the car was there waiting was a great luxury. If I had all the money in the world I'd go up by train to say Penrith and then hire one from there. But a carefully noted bus timetable would be nearly as good!
Borrowdale
Last weekend was a pretty big deal for me, climbing. Here's how it went.
C and I had been looking forward to doing Troutdale Pinnacle for ages. Several weeks ago we picked last Saturday as the date for it. In the last few days before it I got extremely nervous. It was graded Severe and I'd seen a video of it which made me feel it would include quite a few moves that I would find extremely strenuous, and quite likely just impossible. I wasn't too bothered by the downward traverse because I knew that even if I found this very scary, I'd enjoy that - in its own way.
Thinking back, I don't know why it bothered me so much, because even if I had indeed found it impossible, the solution to that is pretty simple - you either don't get off the ground, or you go back to it, one way or another. I wasn't scared of a fall or anything like that.
Anyway I was so scared that I came very close to postponing it. I felt I wasn't good enough because I'd failed to get up two 4s in Redhill a few days previously. I pulled out of the last indoor climb before going. B encouraged me to go and I didn't fancy trying to tell C I didn't feel up to it so off I went.
We got there, C racked up, we tied in, and up he went. He made the first pitch seem neither very easy nor very hard. I didn't get the horrible feeling of looking at it and having no idea at all how to make even a single move. But despite that, when it was my turn to set off, I nearly wet myself with nerves. They went as soon as I started but I did make heavy weather of that pitch.
After that it went better, in terms of nerves. I dropped my belay plate, the ropes got tangled, and the route was crowded after a while, but other than that it went very well. I did find the traverse scary - enjoyably so - and the more difficult bits were especially enjoyable. I liked having other people around actually but I need to get slicker at the rigmarole of climbing - that will come with practice no doubt.
On the way down I said to C that I'd loved it, but had been psyched for something harder, and I wondered what something one grade up would be like. The weather was great, the little car was near us, we had a lovely bed sorted for the night which I'd already slept in and money for a decent dinner out, and the walk down was short. So those issues were covered: I could afford to focus on technical stuff and I was up for a big challenge. (I should say here that I love camping and relish long walks - they're not a problem, but they do take up energy.)
I'll put the other climb in another post.
C and I had been looking forward to doing Troutdale Pinnacle for ages. Several weeks ago we picked last Saturday as the date for it. In the last few days before it I got extremely nervous. It was graded Severe and I'd seen a video of it which made me feel it would include quite a few moves that I would find extremely strenuous, and quite likely just impossible. I wasn't too bothered by the downward traverse because I knew that even if I found this very scary, I'd enjoy that - in its own way.
Thinking back, I don't know why it bothered me so much, because even if I had indeed found it impossible, the solution to that is pretty simple - you either don't get off the ground, or you go back to it, one way or another. I wasn't scared of a fall or anything like that.
Anyway I was so scared that I came very close to postponing it. I felt I wasn't good enough because I'd failed to get up two 4s in Redhill a few days previously. I pulled out of the last indoor climb before going. B encouraged me to go and I didn't fancy trying to tell C I didn't feel up to it so off I went.
We got there, C racked up, we tied in, and up he went. He made the first pitch seem neither very easy nor very hard. I didn't get the horrible feeling of looking at it and having no idea at all how to make even a single move. But despite that, when it was my turn to set off, I nearly wet myself with nerves. They went as soon as I started but I did make heavy weather of that pitch.
After that it went better, in terms of nerves. I dropped my belay plate, the ropes got tangled, and the route was crowded after a while, but other than that it went very well. I did find the traverse scary - enjoyably so - and the more difficult bits were especially enjoyable. I liked having other people around actually but I need to get slicker at the rigmarole of climbing - that will come with practice no doubt.
On the way down I said to C that I'd loved it, but had been psyched for something harder, and I wondered what something one grade up would be like. The weather was great, the little car was near us, we had a lovely bed sorted for the night which I'd already slept in and money for a decent dinner out, and the walk down was short. So those issues were covered: I could afford to focus on technical stuff and I was up for a big challenge. (I should say here that I love camping and relish long walks - they're not a problem, but they do take up energy.)
I'll put the other climb in another post.
Friday, March 9, 2012
the delights of the blogosphere
Several different blogs now have either deleted my comments of decided not to show them. I gather I'm not a big enough name, not one of the right people, or I don't say the right things. Sod it. This isn't the school playground and I shall continue to say what I like where I like, whether it ends up on show or not. But come to think of it, I did that in the playground too.
More heavy gardening again today, several hours. No wonder my back's getting stronger.
More heavy gardening again today, several hours. No wonder my back's getting stronger.
Thursday, March 8, 2012
Better
Climbed at Redhill with K. This was the first time for a while that I was definitely better. Still not as good as I was about 6 weeks ago though which bugs me but I guess I'll get (back) there. It was hardly a glorious high. Anyway. Today went really well for a while, until I came off a route where there was a big swing. Those scare me, for no good reason - and this time I kicked a woman as I swung out. She was belaying opposite. Clearly I shouldn't have been on the route in the circumstances. I apologised profusely and checked she was ok but she wasn't pleased. I felt awful. The next swingy route I tried, I came straight down again when I felt insecure on it.
Had a go at some exercises when I got back but way too tired for them. Will try again maybe tomorrow afternoon.
Keeping the gardening down on climbing days definitely helps.
Had a go at some exercises when I got back but way too tired for them. Will try again maybe tomorrow afternoon.
Keeping the gardening down on climbing days definitely helps.
Friday, March 2, 2012
Wall
Quick note about yesterday at the wall, Redhill with K. Started badly - found stuff I could do last week just wasn't happening. I'd just eaten a huge meal and I was tired from several hours in the garden. Disappointing though. Then it got much better: I got up a route first go that I'd never tried before, over hanging and a bit odd, but nice holds - all very positive but it needed more arm strength than I used to have. The last move I couldn't reach with the hand on that side, then suddenly it occurred to me to try the other hand - and I got it. K did very well again.
Spoke to Harvey who recommends Bowles for outdoors - says it's only £1.80, a parking charge. He also considers it good that there's a loo and they mow the grass. It's not Wimbledon centre court... still, I'll give it a go.
A lot to do now in 2 weeks. Did loads in the garden again today; must remember to do less before climbing; I'm hoping though that the extra work will help for fitness. Dunno.
Climbing this weekend got cancelled. It's a pain but I hope we climb in 2 weeks' time instead.
Spoke to Harvey who recommends Bowles for outdoors - says it's only £1.80, a parking charge. He also considers it good that there's a loo and they mow the grass. It's not Wimbledon centre court... still, I'll give it a go.
A lot to do now in 2 weeks. Did loads in the garden again today; must remember to do less before climbing; I'm hoping though that the extra work will help for fitness. Dunno.
Climbing this weekend got cancelled. It's a pain but I hope we climb in 2 weeks' time instead.
Monday, February 27, 2012
Wall
Yesterday I met up with K at Crawley. It was the first climbing session for about three weeks where I felt I made any progress, though I don't think I'm back where I was 4 weeks ago yet. It's a bit hard to judge because I became even more aware of being scared of coming off when I would swing. This fear exacerbates my weight being too far out and restricts movement so I find it hard to assess how I would be without it.
Had the usual discovery, several times, that moves that looked hard being in fact very easy once I actually made them.
Towards the end I decided I'd like to work on a 5 that went the full height of the wall. I picked one on the main, middle section, where most of the routes are harder, and which overhangs, so that I could also work on the fear of swinging thing. There was another pair just to our right whose route would be amongst mine about half way up, and at that level there was also a clip (the routes there are mainly used for leading). Kevin talked about how the clip would be a problem but I was sure I wouldn't get that far up anyway. As it turned out, I would have- the route went well, felt challenging but good - and by then I'd got not idea how to deal with it and felt awkward about being in their way. This was just an excuse because they were still both on the ground. But my mind was expecting to go down before then so I did. Even so I'm chuffed with the effort. I decided to make that a bit of a project now. I also got up a 5+ and two other 5s but they were shorter. K did very well indeed and got up a 6b, with a huge effort (it also was shorter).
Had the usual discovery, several times, that moves that looked hard being in fact very easy once I actually made them.
Towards the end I decided I'd like to work on a 5 that went the full height of the wall. I picked one on the main, middle section, where most of the routes are harder, and which overhangs, so that I could also work on the fear of swinging thing. There was another pair just to our right whose route would be amongst mine about half way up, and at that level there was also a clip (the routes there are mainly used for leading). Kevin talked about how the clip would be a problem but I was sure I wouldn't get that far up anyway. As it turned out, I would have- the route went well, felt challenging but good - and by then I'd got not idea how to deal with it and felt awkward about being in their way. This was just an excuse because they were still both on the ground. But my mind was expecting to go down before then so I did. Even so I'm chuffed with the effort. I decided to make that a bit of a project now. I also got up a 5+ and two other 5s but they were shorter. K did very well indeed and got up a 6b, with a huge effort (it also was shorter).
Thursday, February 23, 2012
Better
Yesterday evening I climbed with V. This was the second time we'd met up. I was nervous about it. She's better than I am, and a lot slimmer, and I feel a bit lumbering beside her. Even my extra height, clearly an advantage for climbing (at our size), makes me feel awkward. I had badly wanted to be better than before when I saw her this time and I was sure I wouldn't be. We got on pretty well last time but I had a feeling maybe she'd been looking for someone more as a mentor.
I was there before she was and the next good thing was that we both recognised each other. The wall was the busiest I've seen it (when I booked in, they asked if I was with the club; dunno which; East Grinstead?) We settled in at the only free rope in the whole place, having not even looked at the grades, and she set off up what we thought was the easiest route. It wasn't and she found it tough. I looked at the grades and did the easier one, which was a 5, after a bit of faff. She had a go at the third route, then I tried the 6a she'd been on and after a lot of faff got about - I think it's fair to say half way. My best effort at that grade anyway (it wasn't the full wall at K2 though).
We moved on to another rope, climbed more, talked more. I got all the way up a 4 that I didn't manage last time, and found it easier than I remember - a lot easier. As it should be frankly but it's interesting. Tried the 6a on there and got nowhere. V was really helpful.
We got on much better this time. IMO, anyway. I was chuffed. Better all round.
I was there before she was and the next good thing was that we both recognised each other. The wall was the busiest I've seen it (when I booked in, they asked if I was with the club; dunno which; East Grinstead?) We settled in at the only free rope in the whole place, having not even looked at the grades, and she set off up what we thought was the easiest route. It wasn't and she found it tough. I looked at the grades and did the easier one, which was a 5, after a bit of faff. She had a go at the third route, then I tried the 6a she'd been on and after a lot of faff got about - I think it's fair to say half way. My best effort at that grade anyway (it wasn't the full wall at K2 though).
We moved on to another rope, climbed more, talked more. I got all the way up a 4 that I didn't manage last time, and found it easier than I remember - a lot easier. As it should be frankly but it's interesting. Tried the 6a on there and got nowhere. V was really helpful.
We got on much better this time. IMO, anyway. I was chuffed. Better all round.
Sunday, February 5, 2012
Odds and ends
It snowed overnight but I didn't go out in it today. Not like me really but I'm coddling myself in the hope of shifting a cold so that I can feel OK about running again.
Yoga - went well; wonder when I'll be able to drop into plank instead of putting my knees down, but I think other forms of practice will be better for getting to that.
Must start doing the "5 mins" sections of pilates each day - they'll take me a lot longer than that to learn but once I know them they'll get quicker. Not macho stuff but effective.
I found a new climbing blog I loved yesterday but my comment isn't appearing on it. Either he hasn't seen it or my face doesn't fit.
This coming week is looking good:
Monday: climbing with B, hopefully
Weds: film and so on in London
Thurs: climbing with K
Fri: climbing with new UKC lady. I *really* hope that works out but either way it's another session.
Yoga - went well; wonder when I'll be able to drop into plank instead of putting my knees down, but I think other forms of practice will be better for getting to that.
Must start doing the "5 mins" sections of pilates each day - they'll take me a lot longer than that to learn but once I know them they'll get quicker. Not macho stuff but effective.
I found a new climbing blog I loved yesterday but my comment isn't appearing on it. Either he hasn't seen it or my face doesn't fit.
This coming week is looking good:
Monday: climbing with B, hopefully
Weds: film and so on in London
Thurs: climbing with K
Fri: climbing with new UKC lady. I *really* hope that works out but either way it's another session.
Friday, February 3, 2012
Failed
Well. Yes I remember this feeling.
I went to Crawley today to find that their auto-belay had been removed to be serviced. This is good though, I thought, because it will oblige me to focus on bouldering, which I'm determined to get to grips with.
So I put my shoes on and went over. I set off on the only route (problem) I know, got as far up as before - near the top - and was equally foxed, although a lot more secure as I contemplated my foxedness. I did manage to climb down rather than fall. The move up from there looks like something I'll definitely fall on and I'm about 8 feet up by then; I'm very heavy on my feet, no natural bounce, and I'm concerned I'll just sprain an ankle as I go down. Very likely, I'd say.
So I tried another route near it with exactly the same result. It was nice to find it, and to manage to start from sitting down, but I don't feel ok doing challenging moves above head height without a harness. [Later I spoke to Peak district guy about this who said you just learn how to fall. So I have to learn.]
Then I moved over to the other end of the wall where I knew there were more warm-up routes. I found one. It overhangs. I could see 2 starting holds about 3 inches off the ground, and two more very small ones about 2 feet higher up - but above that it was huge rounded things you squeeze - and overhanging - and there were 2 of these, one a few feet above another. Not a chance. I couldn't even work out which way round to start.
So I ended up leaving after less than 15 minutes. I felt awful. Such a pathetic failure. I hate the feeling of not so much failing as not even working out how to start. And I'm determined that I will include bouldering because I'm sure it's going to help, precisely because I'm so weak at it.
I've got to find a way in, but I couldn't see how. I'd tried having people around, and that felt bad because they were all very advanced and I felt I'd get in their way. But having nobody around didn't work either because I need to ask - well, how to do it. At least I need to watch (which is how I found out how the first route worked).
I do love a smooth, apparently impossible conundrum, and my mind ferreted away at it, trying to find a way in. Really I want some sort of Introduction to it. Then I remembered that when I was on the Beginners' Course at Redhill for roped climbing, one of they guys doing it had climbed previously at a place that only did bouldering. I thought that they must (very likely) have some sort of entry thing, which obviously would be geared up to beginners at that.
The solution is not to think I should be any good at bouldering because I can now climb just a bit, but to see it as something totally new.
I found the place on the net - Craggy Island's Sutton site - and not only do they have a one hour intro thing, they also have the place split into 3 rooms by standard, so the Easy folks (children mainly I think) are separated off from the others which will give me somewhere less intimidating to learn the basics. Maybe I shouldn't need that but - meh - when I'm good (by my standards) at bouldering and it's helping and supporting my other climbing, I won't care how I started.
Oh and the wall rang to say I forgot my shoes at Crawley.
Then in the late evening I did yoga and weights. It went really well and I'm sure now that I'm getting stronger.
I went to Crawley today to find that their auto-belay had been removed to be serviced. This is good though, I thought, because it will oblige me to focus on bouldering, which I'm determined to get to grips with.
So I put my shoes on and went over. I set off on the only route (problem) I know, got as far up as before - near the top - and was equally foxed, although a lot more secure as I contemplated my foxedness. I did manage to climb down rather than fall. The move up from there looks like something I'll definitely fall on and I'm about 8 feet up by then; I'm very heavy on my feet, no natural bounce, and I'm concerned I'll just sprain an ankle as I go down. Very likely, I'd say.
So I tried another route near it with exactly the same result. It was nice to find it, and to manage to start from sitting down, but I don't feel ok doing challenging moves above head height without a harness. [Later I spoke to Peak district guy about this who said you just learn how to fall. So I have to learn.]
Then I moved over to the other end of the wall where I knew there were more warm-up routes. I found one. It overhangs. I could see 2 starting holds about 3 inches off the ground, and two more very small ones about 2 feet higher up - but above that it was huge rounded things you squeeze - and overhanging - and there were 2 of these, one a few feet above another. Not a chance. I couldn't even work out which way round to start.
So I ended up leaving after less than 15 minutes. I felt awful. Such a pathetic failure. I hate the feeling of not so much failing as not even working out how to start. And I'm determined that I will include bouldering because I'm sure it's going to help, precisely because I'm so weak at it.
I've got to find a way in, but I couldn't see how. I'd tried having people around, and that felt bad because they were all very advanced and I felt I'd get in their way. But having nobody around didn't work either because I need to ask - well, how to do it. At least I need to watch (which is how I found out how the first route worked).
I do love a smooth, apparently impossible conundrum, and my mind ferreted away at it, trying to find a way in. Really I want some sort of Introduction to it. Then I remembered that when I was on the Beginners' Course at Redhill for roped climbing, one of they guys doing it had climbed previously at a place that only did bouldering. I thought that they must (very likely) have some sort of entry thing, which obviously would be geared up to beginners at that.
The solution is not to think I should be any good at bouldering because I can now climb just a bit, but to see it as something totally new.
I found the place on the net - Craggy Island's Sutton site - and not only do they have a one hour intro thing, they also have the place split into 3 rooms by standard, so the Easy folks (children mainly I think) are separated off from the others which will give me somewhere less intimidating to learn the basics. Maybe I shouldn't need that but - meh - when I'm good (by my standards) at bouldering and it's helping and supporting my other climbing, I won't care how I started.
Oh and the wall rang to say I forgot my shoes at Crawley.
Then in the late evening I did yoga and weights. It went really well and I'm sure now that I'm getting stronger.
Thursday, February 2, 2012
Bug
Still ill with a bug so I didn't run (I know this would sound a cop-out to many people). Brief walk instead, bit of yoga but no salutations. Really need to allow more time for it though even if I'm not doing them. Then some weights - again v briefly but I'm convinced there's a benefit already. Received wisdom would say this was far too soon.
Thinking of using the car tomorrow for a stint in Crawley.
Another message from the guy in the Peak district which pleases me.
Spoke to my parents on the phone, inc my father about climbing. I wonder what he'd make of my current standard. I remember a few months ago he said there was basically no point in my trying. I doubt he'd see it that way now - in fact I know he doesn't.
C was off to Scotland for the weekend. Vicarious tension and excitement about that.
Thinking of using the car tomorrow for a stint in Crawley.
Another message from the guy in the Peak district which pleases me.
Spoke to my parents on the phone, inc my father about climbing. I wonder what he'd make of my current standard. I remember a few months ago he said there was basically no point in my trying. I doubt he'd see it that way now - in fact I know he doesn't.
C was off to Scotland for the weekend. Vicarious tension and excitement about that.
Wednesday, February 1, 2012
The social side
Today I went to the wall to climb with K and shortly after he got there, another guy came over to climb with us also. I'd met him before but never for more than a few minutes. He comes to Redhill about once a week I gather and tends to climb there on spec, and twice a week with a regular partner at K2.
The most difficult thing about climbing for me is my social awkwardness in certain situations. Away from climbing I'm not a shy person really and I'm not used to having to deal with it. I felt surplus this evening. I went over to consider bouldering but it was really crowded so I came back. We ended up climbing as a three. He was heavy (18 stone) so we used a ground-anchor; K didn't like using that so I belayed C each time. He's been climbing as an adult for 18 months; seems to climb up to 6b. He chats as he belays and doesn't watch as closely as K or I would but I know many more experienced climbers are similar. He fought quite hard on some routes and trusted my belaying, both of which I admired. He seemed to be able to use either strength or footwork/features but not both on the same route though; interesting.
I found it hard - impossible - to take as long as I normally would on repeated attempts at things because, climbing as a three, there is less time. Also I felt awkward at my low level although less so than I did a few months ago. I know I need to get less thin-skinned. It's nice to enjoy it socially but that's not the main reason for my going. I am particularly frustrated beause I'd made a plan of things I wanted to work on as per the 9 out of 10 climbers book, but having an extra person there threw me so I didn't do the work I intended to. But new people are good in themselves and there will be loads of other times to implement that.
He had climbed the local outdoors area and explained the set-up there to me, which book he found helpful, how it worked. Useful.
I got up the supposed, v short, 6b again but got spat off a 5 I did last week with B. Was too shy to push for more time. Had a good think about the purple at the end which has a rope on it again finally; I get up that much better now though not to the top. Managed to repeat another 5 from last week.
K said he'd like to go along if I go to Sandstone with D (who I met a few weeks ago). I think I'll go alone with him the first time and go with K separately, maybe after I get my own rope. I'll talk to K about this.
I'm also determined to spend some time bouldering when it's quiet some time.
I know that very soon these tricky social moments will be in the past. I nearly left at one point early this evening - well not that nearly, did manage to keep toys in pram.
It takes all sorts, and I won't let myself get all socially spineless when there's climbing to be enjoyed. More effort to be put in next time.
The most difficult thing about climbing for me is my social awkwardness in certain situations. Away from climbing I'm not a shy person really and I'm not used to having to deal with it. I felt surplus this evening. I went over to consider bouldering but it was really crowded so I came back. We ended up climbing as a three. He was heavy (18 stone) so we used a ground-anchor; K didn't like using that so I belayed C each time. He's been climbing as an adult for 18 months; seems to climb up to 6b. He chats as he belays and doesn't watch as closely as K or I would but I know many more experienced climbers are similar. He fought quite hard on some routes and trusted my belaying, both of which I admired. He seemed to be able to use either strength or footwork/features but not both on the same route though; interesting.
I found it hard - impossible - to take as long as I normally would on repeated attempts at things because, climbing as a three, there is less time. Also I felt awkward at my low level although less so than I did a few months ago. I know I need to get less thin-skinned. It's nice to enjoy it socially but that's not the main reason for my going. I am particularly frustrated beause I'd made a plan of things I wanted to work on as per the 9 out of 10 climbers book, but having an extra person there threw me so I didn't do the work I intended to. But new people are good in themselves and there will be loads of other times to implement that.
He had climbed the local outdoors area and explained the set-up there to me, which book he found helpful, how it worked. Useful.
I got up the supposed, v short, 6b again but got spat off a 5 I did last week with B. Was too shy to push for more time. Had a good think about the purple at the end which has a rope on it again finally; I get up that much better now though not to the top. Managed to repeat another 5 from last week.
K said he'd like to go along if I go to Sandstone with D (who I met a few weeks ago). I think I'll go alone with him the first time and go with K separately, maybe after I get my own rope. I'll talk to K about this.
I'm also determined to spend some time bouldering when it's quiet some time.
I know that very soon these tricky social moments will be in the past. I nearly left at one point early this evening - well not that nearly, did manage to keep toys in pram.
It takes all sorts, and I won't let myself get all socially spineless when there's climbing to be enjoyed. More effort to be put in next time.
Tuesday, January 31, 2012
Nice stuff
Today I took P out for a nice walk (though it was cold). Came home, hot bath, then did some yoga. I noticed I was really stiff and not doing well on the more dynamic stuff though balances were ok; then did a bit of weights. Felt increasingly rough; an hour or so later clearly had a bug coming on. Meh. I think I can feel the beginnings of the weights working but that might be wishful thinking.
Heard again from the lady on UKC, which is nice, and was v chuffed that C suggested climbing Troutdale Pinacle, as we'd originally planned to a while ago. As it happens I think I'll enjoy that (from a climbing point of view at least and frankly that's what it is!) even more by now than I would have then.
I'm re-reading the 9 out of 10 climbers book and getting loads out of it. I particularly like the distinction between climbing and practice, and the idea of slow practice with thought compared to routes where thinking needs to be kept to a minimum. I had a vague feeling of this but it's much clearer in my mind now.
Heard again from the lady on UKC, which is nice, and was v chuffed that C suggested climbing Troutdale Pinacle, as we'd originally planned to a while ago. As it happens I think I'll enjoy that (from a climbing point of view at least and frankly that's what it is!) even more by now than I would have then.
I'm re-reading the 9 out of 10 climbers book and getting loads out of it. I particularly like the distinction between climbing and practice, and the idea of slow practice with thought compared to routes where thinking needs to be kept to a minimum. I had a vague feeling of this but it's much clearer in my mind now.
Saturday, January 28, 2012
Tired!
I didn't know I was going to get the chance to go climbing today. I took P for a run in St Leonard's Forest in the morning, came back, had a bath then did some yoga. Then Ben mentioned climbing so clearly ...
Went to Redhill. Got up a 5 that I didn't manage at all last time, but at the end I didn't get up one I did last time - just couldn't for the life of me remember how I'd done it. I could remember the shape, the patter of the move, but not how it actually fitted to what was there. Ben came off the vicious 3+ a couple of times and banged his elbow. I got about a third up it again. We both got up a short route (about 4 meters to a little tower) labeled 6b+ but clearly it can't have been that. The holds were few and small though and it was mainly features. It was quite balancey. Ben managed a 6a beside it but I couldn't (clearly the other route's misgraded but I'm glad we did it.
Very tired now. Off for a curry.
Went to Redhill. Got up a 5 that I didn't manage at all last time, but at the end I didn't get up one I did last time - just couldn't for the life of me remember how I'd done it. I could remember the shape, the patter of the move, but not how it actually fitted to what was there. Ben came off the vicious 3+ a couple of times and banged his elbow. I got about a third up it again. We both got up a short route (about 4 meters to a little tower) labeled 6b+ but clearly it can't have been that. The holds were few and small though and it was mainly features. It was quite balancey. Ben managed a 6a beside it but I couldn't (clearly the other route's misgraded but I'm glad we did it.
Very tired now. Off for a curry.
Friday, January 27, 2012
Left foot, right foot
Yesterday P and I ran a bit further than we have run before. Just a bit - about 800 yards probably. It makes me pleased because this is about the third of fourth time I've done a stint of occasional running, and each time, the furthest point I got to was the same - 5k. This time I'm aiming for a half marathon, but it's just a subsidiary thing, and no hurry. I know P won't run that far, but I think she'll be running with me for a good while yet.
Today I'll be tackling a new set of arm and shoulder exercises. I'll cut back the yoga to just 10 minutes or so. Learning new exercises is a right hassle, I always forget what a pain it is. Too much of a technophobe to use a DVD so I balance the book open in front of me. Makes the cat smirk.
Have a plan for next visit to Crawley: 3 times up the 4, to work on stamina. Then next time I'll have a look at the 5 again.
Bloke re the Peak district has gone quiet since I told him my standard. Never mind.
I booked a ticket for the talk in London. The Royal Geographical Society - v posh-sounding.
PS I haven't found any blogs written by people who climb at my level (funny that - the rest have more sense/modesty) so I follow the blogs of people who are out-of-sight better. Probably better to read that anyway, except that loads of it is pretty remote from my experience. Anyway, liked this from Stevie Haston's latest:
"dead is where you don’t get to practise a good screw!"
http://steviehaston.blogspot.com/2012/01/grivel-360-ice-screw-by-stevie-haston.html
Today I'll be tackling a new set of arm and shoulder exercises. I'll cut back the yoga to just 10 minutes or so. Learning new exercises is a right hassle, I always forget what a pain it is. Too much of a technophobe to use a DVD so I balance the book open in front of me. Makes the cat smirk.
Have a plan for next visit to Crawley: 3 times up the 4, to work on stamina. Then next time I'll have a look at the 5 again.
Bloke re the Peak district has gone quiet since I told him my standard. Never mind.
I booked a ticket for the talk in London. The Royal Geographical Society - v posh-sounding.
PS I haven't found any blogs written by people who climb at my level (funny that - the rest have more sense/modesty) so I follow the blogs of people who are out-of-sight better. Probably better to read that anyway, except that loads of it is pretty remote from my experience. Anyway, liked this from Stevie Haston's latest:
"dead is where you don’t get to practise a good screw!"
http://steviehaston.blogspot.com/2012/01/grivel-360-ice-screw-by-stevie-haston.html
Wednesday, January 25, 2012
Yay!
Another cracking visit to the wall this evening. Got up the 4+ that I came off twice last time - and couldn't really see why it had been an issue. Got up a new 5 that I'm really chuffed with: it felt so impossible to start with. The holds were overhanging and out of reach. Turned out the solution was flagging as I stood up but having only one hand and one foot in place each time felt very weak. Repeatedly recently I've noticed there are some moves that look way more intimidating from just below than they actually feel once you've got the balance etc right to make them.
On the other hand, this didn't happen with the 3+ which has been bugging me for weeks. I got about halfway up it today. The simple truth is you need strong hands and you need to move quickly. I'll get the rest of it soon.
I watched the girl I spoke to on Monday night again. She's like a much better version of me, in how she moves - definitely something I can aspire to.
There's a particular move I'm beginning to get the feel of. It's turning sideways, holding myself in against the wall, and getting weight over a leg bent up high under me. It's getting better.
Also I notice that if my feet slip completely off the wall now, I can hold myself long enough to get them back on. I couldn't do that until recently.
K and I talked about our aims for this year. I said that mine had been to climb 6A by the end of it, but I'm hoping I might be able to bring that forward a bit. He's hoping to get up 6b's by the end and frankly I'm sure he'll do that sooner - he's done one already.
I read about a talk in London that I'd love to go to in early Feb by Dave MacLeod. Don't think the piggy bank will stretch to it though because I stupidly spent money on [non-climbing] clothes yesterday. (I was just so chuffed to fit into size 10 trousers!)
A guy I encountered on the net has offered to climb with me in the Peak district. He's way better than I am; I explained this but he seems ok about it. We'll see - for both people it's always rather a shot in the dark to meet on the net for something outdoors and rather distant. But if I do the sandstone stuff locally with D, and then possibly go to the Peak... this is starting to look rather good. If C does come good on things in the long run, then it will look very good indeed :)
On the other hand, this didn't happen with the 3+ which has been bugging me for weeks. I got about halfway up it today. The simple truth is you need strong hands and you need to move quickly. I'll get the rest of it soon.
I watched the girl I spoke to on Monday night again. She's like a much better version of me, in how she moves - definitely something I can aspire to.
There's a particular move I'm beginning to get the feel of. It's turning sideways, holding myself in against the wall, and getting weight over a leg bent up high under me. It's getting better.
Also I notice that if my feet slip completely off the wall now, I can hold myself long enough to get them back on. I couldn't do that until recently.
K and I talked about our aims for this year. I said that mine had been to climb 6A by the end of it, but I'm hoping I might be able to bring that forward a bit. He's hoping to get up 6b's by the end and frankly I'm sure he'll do that sooner - he's done one already.
I read about a talk in London that I'd love to go to in early Feb by Dave MacLeod. Don't think the piggy bank will stretch to it though because I stupidly spent money on [non-climbing] clothes yesterday. (I was just so chuffed to fit into size 10 trousers!)
A guy I encountered on the net has offered to climb with me in the Peak district. He's way better than I am; I explained this but he seems ok about it. We'll see - for both people it's always rather a shot in the dark to meet on the net for something outdoors and rather distant. But if I do the sandstone stuff locally with D, and then possibly go to the Peak... this is starting to look rather good. If C does come good on things in the long run, then it will look very good indeed :)
Monday, January 23, 2012
Effort...
Yoga in the morning, and then climbed with Kevin.
Realised I'd left my chalk bag in Crawley - hope it's found its way to lost property there, must call them tomorrow about it.
This evening I was foiled by a new 4+ - a small pinchy hold on the right and a big reach to the left; might get it next week. Got up a 5. Had a go at a 5+, very steep over hang (right upside down) but with big holds, but no way to support with the legs (well, no way for me just now - need more core strength) so came straight off. I'll get there though. I think apart from anything else I need to be quick on it.
Tomorrow I'll run beyond the 5k mark in the middle of a field that I use for the first time. Small thing but good. And do the arms/back section of the pilates book.
I do know that I stop earlier than I should do on routes just now. I'm scared not of falling, but of hurting myself. I don't think that's really likely - I mean pulling something or whatever. I think it would be more repetitive stuff that would do that. Find it hard to motivate myself to push really hard. Kevin rarely does and never more than once on a route or in an evening. Can't blame him though, I need to find it in myself. I do want it.
PS - couple more things. I noticed a woman whose climbing I admried; she was quite short, not fat but not skinny either, but climbed well. I asked later how long she'd been climbing and she said 2 years.
Yesterday in Crawley as I was labouring up the auto-belay route there was a man beside me making rather a lot of noise - lots of huffing and puffing. One or two of his friends down the bottom were calling out encouragement. They didn't seem to be very big moves he was making so I couldn't really see what the fuss was about. Then just after he got to the bottom, a little lad went running up to a woman who'd just arrived and shouted, "My dad's just got up a 7c with a broken collar-bone!"
Realised I'd left my chalk bag in Crawley - hope it's found its way to lost property there, must call them tomorrow about it.
This evening I was foiled by a new 4+ - a small pinchy hold on the right and a big reach to the left; might get it next week. Got up a 5. Had a go at a 5+, very steep over hang (right upside down) but with big holds, but no way to support with the legs (well, no way for me just now - need more core strength) so came straight off. I'll get there though. I think apart from anything else I need to be quick on it.
Tomorrow I'll run beyond the 5k mark in the middle of a field that I use for the first time. Small thing but good. And do the arms/back section of the pilates book.
I do know that I stop earlier than I should do on routes just now. I'm scared not of falling, but of hurting myself. I don't think that's really likely - I mean pulling something or whatever. I think it would be more repetitive stuff that would do that. Find it hard to motivate myself to push really hard. Kevin rarely does and never more than once on a route or in an evening. Can't blame him though, I need to find it in myself. I do want it.
PS - couple more things. I noticed a woman whose climbing I admried; she was quite short, not fat but not skinny either, but climbed well. I asked later how long she'd been climbing and she said 2 years.
Yesterday in Crawley as I was labouring up the auto-belay route there was a man beside me making rather a lot of noise - lots of huffing and puffing. One or two of his friends down the bottom were calling out encouragement. They didn't seem to be very big moves he was making so I couldn't really see what the fuss was about. Then just after he got to the bottom, a little lad went running up to a woman who'd just arrived and shouted, "My dad's just got up a 7c with a broken collar-bone!"
Sunday, January 22, 2012
Good news and bad
Went to Crawley.
Well the bad news is that I didn't get to to the top of the 4 on the auto-belay. I decided to focus on the 5 instead and managed to tire myself out (some) on it. In retrospect I should have pushed myself up the 4 at least once too even though I knew it wasn't the most technically taxing thing I could be doing.
Good news: I had a go at bouldering, looked a right tit but really enjoyed it. Learned loads, not least that falling off isn't actually that common: you climb down a bit to where you can then just jump from. Really glad I made [another] start at this. I know I've started before but I'm more determined to persist now.
At the end of my session I noticed a guy using the auto-belay, and persuaded myself to go over and offer to belay for him. I'd already got my trainers on and ended up using that as an excuse not to climb myself but hey, still progress. He says he's not likely to go back to that wall - not local and finds it expensive - but did offer to meet up and climb on Sandstone some time, which he does most weekends; have exchanged phone numbers.
Well the bad news is that I didn't get to to the top of the 4 on the auto-belay. I decided to focus on the 5 instead and managed to tire myself out (some) on it. In retrospect I should have pushed myself up the 4 at least once too even though I knew it wasn't the most technically taxing thing I could be doing.
Good news: I had a go at bouldering, looked a right tit but really enjoyed it. Learned loads, not least that falling off isn't actually that common: you climb down a bit to where you can then just jump from. Really glad I made [another] start at this. I know I've started before but I'm more determined to persist now.
At the end of my session I noticed a guy using the auto-belay, and persuaded myself to go over and offer to belay for him. I'd already got my trainers on and ended up using that as an excuse not to climb myself but hey, still progress. He says he's not likely to go back to that wall - not local and finds it expensive - but did offer to meet up and climb on Sandstone some time, which he does most weekends; have exchanged phone numbers.
Saturday, January 21, 2012
Run on the Downs
Another run on Mickleham Downs; ran up the hills this time too but they are very small.
Kevin texted to say he's free to climb on Monday.
The usual "I hate it" feeling about using the gadget tomorrow. Chucking myself off it will be even more fun. Odd how satisfying it is to have something to square up to, and how it doesn't matter how trivial.
Kevin texted to say he's free to climb on Monday.
The usual "I hate it" feeling about using the gadget tomorrow. Chucking myself off it will be even more fun. Odd how satisfying it is to have something to square up to, and how it doesn't matter how trivial.
Friday, January 20, 2012
9 out of 10 book, and pilates
First session with Pilates book; v good but I'd forgotten what a hassle it is to be learning new exercises from a book - terribly slow.
9 Out of 10 Climbers book arrived. Clearly not written for people at my level but v interesting read anyway. Realised that I need to practice actually falling off the blooming auto-belay thing, not just coming down it; I'll never get the best out of it otherwise. Must tackle bouldering too, and make an effort with what-I-have-for-arms.
9 Out of 10 Climbers book arrived. Clearly not written for people at my level but v interesting read anyway. Realised that I need to practice actually falling off the blooming auto-belay thing, not just coming down it; I'll never get the best out of it otherwise. Must tackle bouldering too, and make an effort with what-I-have-for-arms.
Thursday, January 19, 2012
Cracking run
Today I did my first ever attempt at running intervals. The idea is that this will help me to run a bit faster. So far I've always just run as far as I feel I can, then either turned round or made a loop, all at a steady plod. This time I went about 3/4 of last run's distance, steady plod, then on the way back sprinted between various trees, bits of leaf etc. It was superb! Felt absolutely great - the buz I normally get at the end of running, several times. So I'm really encouraged by that. Must remember to drink again promptly after I get home though.
Wednesday, January 18, 2012
Wall etc
I sorted out the money and booked my place on the class in Birmingham - and a bed for the night with friends, and a curry to say thank you.
Bought a book on Pilates. I'm not happy with the weights book I'm using - screwing up my back isn't good.
Paid for a 30 day pass at the wall - will cover Redhill and Crawley.
Emailed the lady from UKC and said I'd happily go to Weymouth some of the time; haven't heard back so maybe she's sorted.
Then: climbed with Kevin. Seem to be squarely placed on getting up or working on 5s now, and one 4 that we both agree is low-graded. There's a new blue I want to get up; need to keep moving smoothly and be bold but balancey on it. Also there's a green opposite I fancy - big reaches and slightly overhanging. That also needs boldness I think and maybe some more thoughtful footwork - features I bet... Didn't try the magenta one this time. Managed to get the crossing-over bit on the lilacs (interesting how hard it is to do a route a better way once I've learned a way that just works).
Best moment: getting up the purple 5 on the slopey slab that used to feel just impossible. That was lots of rock-overs. V chuffed with that (thought it is several months since it seemed impossible).
I seem to be getting better each week just now and I know I'm likely to plateau in a bit. Tempting to think I'll worry about that when it happens, but before then I'd like to get some good habits in place.
Bought a book on Pilates. I'm not happy with the weights book I'm using - screwing up my back isn't good.
Paid for a 30 day pass at the wall - will cover Redhill and Crawley.
Emailed the lady from UKC and said I'd happily go to Weymouth some of the time; haven't heard back so maybe she's sorted.
Then: climbed with Kevin. Seem to be squarely placed on getting up or working on 5s now, and one 4 that we both agree is low-graded. There's a new blue I want to get up; need to keep moving smoothly and be bold but balancey on it. Also there's a green opposite I fancy - big reaches and slightly overhanging. That also needs boldness I think and maybe some more thoughtful footwork - features I bet... Didn't try the magenta one this time. Managed to get the crossing-over bit on the lilacs (interesting how hard it is to do a route a better way once I've learned a way that just works).
Best moment: getting up the purple 5 on the slopey slab that used to feel just impossible. That was lots of rock-overs. V chuffed with that (thought it is several months since it seemed impossible).
I seem to be getting better each week just now and I know I'm likely to plateau in a bit. Tempting to think I'll worry about that when it happens, but before then I'd like to get some good habits in place.
Yesterday
A few notes about yesterday.
I ran 5k for the first time since August. It went well, didn't feel too tired, although I had lots of breaks because of having to sort out Pippa. Yoga, and I spent a while working on chaturange (bit like a push up). It eludes me still be I'm getting closer. Weights - used the 5kg ones for the first time again since August, for one exercise.
Ordered a copy of 9 Out of 10 Climbers. I've had it on my wishlist for a while but I think I'm in a state where I could benefit from it now.
Saw a BMC touring masterclass advertised on UKC which I'd like to go to. Aimed at people who climb 5-6b, but it's in 2 months time so I hope I'll be securely in at least the bottom end of that by then. It's taught by a woman too which helps. The London date is full up already; I'm hoping to go to the Birmingham one but it will take me a couple of days now to sort out money for it; I hope there are places left.
Contacted a woman on UKC who was looking for a partner; she's in Worthing so not very close but she says she's happy to go to K2. She climbs 5+ but wants to improve; sounds ideal. This would be in addition to Ben and Kevin. All good; we'll see.
Less brilliantly, I've got a persistent twinge today in my right - well, buttock frankly, running from top of the thigh to my lower back. I'm pretty sure this is from foul reverse leg lifts - I find them virtually impossible; yesterday I pushed hard at them and I suspect buggered my lower back a bit. I'll drop them for a while and take it easy today (still climbing tonight though!)
I ran 5k for the first time since August. It went well, didn't feel too tired, although I had lots of breaks because of having to sort out Pippa. Yoga, and I spent a while working on chaturange (bit like a push up). It eludes me still be I'm getting closer. Weights - used the 5kg ones for the first time again since August, for one exercise.
Ordered a copy of 9 Out of 10 Climbers. I've had it on my wishlist for a while but I think I'm in a state where I could benefit from it now.
Saw a BMC touring masterclass advertised on UKC which I'd like to go to. Aimed at people who climb 5-6b, but it's in 2 months time so I hope I'll be securely in at least the bottom end of that by then. It's taught by a woman too which helps. The London date is full up already; I'm hoping to go to the Birmingham one but it will take me a couple of days now to sort out money for it; I hope there are places left.
Contacted a woman on UKC who was looking for a partner; she's in Worthing so not very close but she says she's happy to go to K2. She climbs 5+ but wants to improve; sounds ideal. This would be in addition to Ben and Kevin. All good; we'll see.
Less brilliantly, I've got a persistent twinge today in my right - well, buttock frankly, running from top of the thigh to my lower back. I'm pretty sure this is from foul reverse leg lifts - I find them virtually impossible; yesterday I pushed hard at them and I suspect buggered my lower back a bit. I'll drop them for a while and take it easy today (still climbing tonight though!)
Monday, January 16, 2012
Eye candy
Today I was in London most of the time, rambling about and so on.
On the way in I called at Oxfam and bought a book I'd seen in the window: Top Climbs of The World. It's huge format with loads of pictures. Quite often in the evenings I've fancied having some really glossy pictures of climbs I could ogle at and use for inspiration so I'm chuffed with this. Oh and also a book by Chris Bonnington.
On the way in I called at Oxfam and bought a book I'd seen in the window: Top Climbs of The World. It's huge format with loads of pictures. Quite often in the evenings I've fancied having some really glossy pictures of climbs I could ogle at and use for inspiration so I'm chuffed with this. Oh and also a book by Chris Bonnington.
Sunday, January 15, 2012
Success!
Got to the top of the 4 on the auto-belay. Then I went up the 5 and got - hard to say, maybe half way. I think I'd have got to the top with a human belayer. I'm really chuffed with this because I found the fear quite something. The thing that really helped was making myself rest at certain points but not letting myself come down.
While I was resting I saw 2 young girls climbing. Aged... dunno, 14-18 maybe - very slim, not curvy, gangly limbs but adult height. One of them had a High Sports top on. She went up the 5 I'd been on as a warm-up. The main difference was how much she twisted around - like an eel. C had tried to teach me this and I think I got a bit better, but watching it was very helpful.
I'm wondering about getting a month's membership for the wall. But it wouldn't cover rock-club. Hmm.
While I was resting I saw 2 young girls climbing. Aged... dunno, 14-18 maybe - very slim, not curvy, gangly limbs but adult height. One of them had a High Sports top on. She went up the 5 I'd been on as a warm-up. The main difference was how much she twisted around - like an eel. C had tried to teach me this and I think I got a bit better, but watching it was very helpful.
I'm wondering about getting a month's membership for the wall. But it wouldn't cover rock-club. Hmm.
Saturday, January 14, 2012
Another good day
Went for a run on Mickleham Down. Running along between hedges completely covered in frost - and the views go for miles in the winter through bare branches. P didn't get tired. Near the end we met a lady round a corner who apologised for the scared stance of her dog. "Normally she's only like this when there's a horse coming up" - so apparently I sound like a horse. Or Pippa does, maybe...?
Then yoga and weights. Yoga went v well. Weights - I can see from my notebook that I did a lot more in August. But that was after only a couple of weeks: I think I might get back to the same place pretty quickly.
I should take a camera for some pictures for this blog. Not easy to get them at the wall - you're either up there or belaying - but some of a run would still be nice to ornament the place a bit.
Tomorrow I'll go to Crawley to play on the auto-gadget. I'm determined to dragoon myself up to the top this time. Shorter session this time though.
Then yoga and weights. Yoga went v well. Weights - I can see from my notebook that I did a lot more in August. But that was after only a couple of weeks: I think I might get back to the same place pretty quickly.
I should take a camera for some pictures for this blog. Not easy to get them at the wall - you're either up there or belaying - but some of a run would still be nice to ornament the place a bit.
Tomorrow I'll go to Crawley to play on the auto-gadget. I'm determined to dragoon myself up to the top this time. Shorter session this time though.
Friday, January 13, 2012
Cracking visit to the wall
Went to the wall with Ben this evening and had a storming time - I was really chuffed. They'd put up very few new routes: I got up a new 5 first time (tbh I suspect it's a bit over-graded; Ben found it tricky but that was because he was cramped under an overhang). Then - this is the bit I'm really excited about - I got more than halfway up a 6A. Go me. Clearly since this is Redhill, more than half way means about 10 inches off the ground but never mind... the main thing is I suspect in about another couple of weeks, I might well do all of it.
Also got up the 4+ I managed the first time on Wednesday but did it much better this time - no messing about and it felt good.
And also got 2/3 up a purple I'd worked on with Chris. I did however fall off that, swing way out, and end up knocking the side end wall - just gently. I'm v chuffed about this bit because I was doing miles better - was able to do things I just couldn't make work before and also B said I looked as though the right moves came naturally. That's a first.
I realise this entry is going to sound horribly conceited when I read it back. Oh well.
I also did weights and yoga this morning - both went well.
Also got up the 4+ I managed the first time on Wednesday but did it much better this time - no messing about and it felt good.
And also got 2/3 up a purple I'd worked on with Chris. I did however fall off that, swing way out, and end up knocking the side end wall - just gently. I'm v chuffed about this bit because I was doing miles better - was able to do things I just couldn't make work before and also B said I looked as though the right moves came naturally. That's a first.
I realise this entry is going to sound horribly conceited when I read it back. Oh well.
I also did weights and yoga this morning - both went well.
Wednesday, January 11, 2012
All things pass - and a good evening
Well. Yesterday evening I had an argument with C, with whom apart from anything else I've had wonderful times in the Lakes and who introduced me to climbing. He pulled the plug, very suddenly, to avoid further conflict. It was a huge shock. I got 10 minutes sleep last night.
So today I did yoga and weights but forgot meditation, or rather just couldn't face it; didn't go for a walk. I will be running tomorrow.
Then this evening I went to the wall. I told K very roughly what had happened but without the details I doubt it makes much sense. To my amazement I had a good evening. Somehow the dictum of "don't think about it" came really easily and I got up 3 new routes! A 4, a 4+ and a 5.
The 4 had a huge overhang - I was almost totally upside down, but on enormous holds; the last seemed a big reach but I got it the 2nd time. I kept moving briskly and found it far less difficult than I expected.
The 4+ is one with a slight overhang, in 2 steps, which has spat me off repeatedly and felt impossible before. I got up it by putting in lots of little steps, some on features, some smearing.
The 5 was in a chimney. I'm really chuffed with that - not only with getting up but with trying it. Come to think of it, I got up first time. So I've done two 5's now.
Kevin the instructor (who was busy with others and we didn't really feel the need of him) asked about Scotland and whether I had photos. I want to print out some climbing and walking pics and put them in an album.
It feels good to climb just for myself. Very bittersweet though. Today it came easily to work hard.
So today I did yoga and weights but forgot meditation, or rather just couldn't face it; didn't go for a walk. I will be running tomorrow.
Then this evening I went to the wall. I told K very roughly what had happened but without the details I doubt it makes much sense. To my amazement I had a good evening. Somehow the dictum of "don't think about it" came really easily and I got up 3 new routes! A 4, a 4+ and a 5.
The 4 had a huge overhang - I was almost totally upside down, but on enormous holds; the last seemed a big reach but I got it the 2nd time. I kept moving briskly and found it far less difficult than I expected.
The 4+ is one with a slight overhang, in 2 steps, which has spat me off repeatedly and felt impossible before. I got up it by putting in lots of little steps, some on features, some smearing.
The 5 was in a chimney. I'm really chuffed with that - not only with getting up but with trying it. Come to think of it, I got up first time. So I've done two 5's now.
Kevin the instructor (who was busy with others and we didn't really feel the need of him) asked about Scotland and whether I had photos. I want to print out some climbing and walking pics and put them in an album.
It feels good to climb just for myself. Very bittersweet though. Today it came easily to work hard.
Sunday, January 8, 2012
Auto belay fun
Today I went to the wall in Crawley at about 2:30 and used the auto-belay there for a while. I'm very glad I went but I did climb really badly because I had bad nerves on the thing. A few things to note for next time:
1. Bring something to eat - more than one thing, both small, and obviously water. This is not just for eating but to create breaks. (I found it really tiring. Later on I discovered they're often used to train for endurance so that figures.)
2. Get there really early in the hope of having the gadget to yourself. Bring a book to read if you need to put in the time.
3. Don't waste energy on climbing down - it's not a doddle and the gadget isn't going to care whether you make good use of each trip up and down.
4. Before each trip up, set a point on the wall and determine to get at least that far. Pretend there's someone at the bottom of the rope wanting you to do it.
On the plus side, I found my reach seems to have got a lot further. I suspect I'd easily get to the top of that pink now if I was doing it with a partner, and suprisingly the green next to it is OK at the bottom too - haven't got far up yet though.
Later I took P quickly round the rec. Intend to do quite a bit tomorrow; we'll see.
Next time I'm going to force myself to have a go at bouldering as well.
1. Bring something to eat - more than one thing, both small, and obviously water. This is not just for eating but to create breaks. (I found it really tiring. Later on I discovered they're often used to train for endurance so that figures.)
2. Get there really early in the hope of having the gadget to yourself. Bring a book to read if you need to put in the time.
3. Don't waste energy on climbing down - it's not a doddle and the gadget isn't going to care whether you make good use of each trip up and down.
4. Before each trip up, set a point on the wall and determine to get at least that far. Pretend there's someone at the bottom of the rope wanting you to do it.
On the plus side, I found my reach seems to have got a lot further. I suspect I'd easily get to the top of that pink now if I was doing it with a partner, and suprisingly the green next to it is OK at the bottom too - haven't got far up yet though.
Later I took P quickly round the rec. Intend to do quite a bit tomorrow; we'll see.
Next time I'm going to force myself to have a go at bouldering as well.
Monday, January 2, 2012
catch up
Climbed at Crawley with Kevin. Very grateful for the chance but not many routes at my level. Did see the auto-belay is in a better place though so I'll have another go on that.
Climbed with Chris in Redhill - so, so glad I did that. Learned loads. Must push a lot harder on things. More about keeping going on repeated attempts.
Went for a quick run today with P on Holmwood Common.
Have decided to aim for 9st 12. Currently 10 5. Don't want this blog to become just about weight though. That and some work on the arms will help I think.
Climbed with Chris in Redhill - so, so glad I did that. Learned loads. Must push a lot harder on things. More about keeping going on repeated attempts.
Went for a quick run today with P on Holmwood Common.
Have decided to aim for 9st 12. Currently 10 5. Don't want this blog to become just about weight though. That and some work on the arms will help I think.
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